At least 50 of them took part in a low-profile anti-war protest in a cordoned-off corner of the capital's Chaoyang Park and, as they were leaving, they were met at the gates by crowds of journalists.

This was when the adrenalin and the words started flowing without inhibition, despite the massive presence of uniformed police ordering demonstrators and media to disperse.

The protestors, mostly students, vented their anger at the way their demonstration -- cancelled at the last minute and then allowed to go ahead anyway -- was kept almost invisible from other Beijingers.

"This is a perfectly normal demonstration," said a student demonstrator. "The whole world has had massive protests, so I don't know why we meet this reaction."

One student outside the gates of the park repeatedly defied police orders to stop unfolding a green and red banner reading "Give Peace a Chance" in front of rolling TV cameras.

He wrapped himself in the banner and started running down the sidewalk as police approached him, but officers eventually managed to wrestle it away from him.

Several protesters were detained at the scene, including a man who was handing out photocopied anti-war statements to reporters.

It was an odd crowd gathering outside the park, as student peaceniks and left-wing intellectuals were joined by senior citizens with Cold War views about the United States.

One long-haired youngster was singing "Blowin' in the Wind" and other Vietnam-era protest songs while a bit further down the road a man in his 70s was recalling the first of America's Asian wars.

"The United States is the enemy of the world," shouted the man, a veteran of the 1950-53 Korean War which cost China hundreds of thousands of lives. "Down with Bush, Bush is a bastard," he cried, referring to US President George W. Bush.

The veteran, who was proudly showing a medal from the conflict that ended half a century ago, earned a thundering applause.

Police, apparently aware of his hero status, decided to be soft on him, quietly urging him to leave.

A leftist intellectual gathered a small audience as he spoke loudly and angrily about the need face the US challenge.

"Chairman Mao dared to stand up to the Americans," he declared angrily.

While anti-American rhetoric can still be heard in China, an increasingly capitalist, outwardly opened economy has pushed it towards the edges of the politically correct.

Criticism of China's own government is as far beyond the pale as ever, but even that was voiced by some of the demonstrators.

"In our country, there's not enough democracy, not enough human rights," said one student, seeing how police were keeping a lid on demonstrations outside the park.

As the crowds started thinning, while the police in their black uniforms remained a very concrete lingering presence, some demonstrators appeared to be have second thoughts about their action.

"I would have a bright future if I hadn't taken part in this demonstration. Now I've said some extreme things, and may have created problems," said one student.

"I'm a little worried if I'm going to get arrested. I'm not sure it's been worth it," he said.

WAR.WIRE