The alluring charm of Ibaraki can be an elusive creature. Akin to an ethereal breeze catching you unaware, it sweeps you into a serene adventure colored by a history laden past. Nestled in the northeastern area of the Kanto region, Ibaraki was considered a utopia in the early 8th century. A reputation garnered by fruitful harvests and lavish gifts from the ocean and surrounding mountains. Its extravagant bounty nourished a Babylonian backdrop for the lifestyles of the rich and famous.

The astounding heritage coupled with royal lineage ties to the Tokugawa Shogunate placed Ibaraki at the forefront of Japan's political and economic dynasty allowing culture to bloom and to flourish during the Edo period (1603-1868). Powerful samurai generals and affluent priests once spent tranquil afternoons of leisurely contemplation amid immaculate gardens found throughout the prefecture. Their influence and penchant for architecturally stunning domiciles still resonate, casting their dominant shadows on the landscape.

On this journey, a delegation of urban nomads was warranted a two day pass of exploration and with the guiding hand of spirited avatars from the Ibaraki Prefecture and the Japan Travel Bureau, we captured a glimpse into a foregone era still cherished with pride and honor to this day. Follow our cultural shenanigans through this series of episodes.

Day 1 (Episode 1) - Washi Museum - Hitachiomiya
The genesis of traditional paper (washi) fabrication in Japan began in 610 AD as Buddhist monks spawned the art form, originally from China, as a self-serving measure to immortalize their sutras. Japan's inclination to elevate any practice or product to new heights soon found a superior, homegrown skillset that launched a prosperous cottage industry, By the late 1800s, there were over 100,000 families throughout Japan producing artisanal washi products.

Our journey begins in Hiatchiomiya, a rural town tucked away in the northern reaches of Ibaraki. The chartered carriage delivered us to a quaint museum situated among open fields where the remains of harvested crops withered in the sun. Within the confines of a minimalist building, we mindfully cast our musings to the showcased remnants of past artists and the secular apparatus of their trade that adorned the interior of the establishment. A bespectacled, resident washi master, tempered by youth, engaged the gentle stares settling on him with tutelage and deft maneuvers as he motioned through the 1,400 year old techniques.

A brief history revealed that the fibrous inner skin of Gampi branches, common to this prefecture, is laboriously processed by hand. Branches are trimmed, soaked, the bark removed and the tough pliant inner bark is painstakingly separated, cleaned, then pounded and stretched. Numbingly cold water and a clear, lotion like gel derived from the Aibika root, a distasteful sister of the okra plant, are combined in a large container (suki fune) which serve to bind the three elements into a harmonious precursor of the written word.

Utilizing a bamboo meshed screen (suketa) encased in wood, one simply immersed the device into the milky soup repeatedly, sifting back and forth, until a thin layer materialized and the water drained freely. We each took a turn at the helm as the washi master exuded patience and offered gracious counsel to the hands prone to chaotic tendencies.

The measured act proved to be thrilling to those of us who could effectuate the desired end. For those participants who lacked the dexterity to yield a stately outcome, a lightly frustrated chuckle masked their inadequacies. We certainly were not craftsmen and our handiwork would prove a disgrace among the veterans of the art, but we were, for an ephemeral moment, novice artisans practicing a timeless craft. A piece of memorabilia was promised to us as we left and we were content to look forward to a gift of our own making.

Upon completion of our near sacrilegious attempt, we made a short jaunt across a remote, yet surprisingly busy stretch of road leading us to their commercial abode where they plied their wares. A mirage of colors, as if a rainbow had imploded within, sparkled and imparted a luster to the various memorabilia on display. The sheer variety of washi applications was overwhelming and after a tenuous moment of indecision, I settled on a letter stationary set that would add character to an old practice of communication.

Stay tuned for our next episode - Irori Dining